[HG 1/144] ZGMF-X56S Impulse Gundam

HG 1/144 WIP- ZGMF-X56S Impulse Gundam

I figured I'd try a different review than I normally do by comparing runners from the three Impulse variants side by side. 

Left to Right: Sword, Force, Blast

 Unlike most kits that repurpose runners, you're not really gonna be left with much of anything after the build.

Here's where misfortune strikes. The first time I've broken a v-fin. Not even while sharpening, I broke it while cutting the part off the runner.

After crying for a couple of seconds, I stuck on a length of runner, then resumed crying while waiting for the cement to cure. After filing down to shape, it's almost good as new.

An utter failure eyeballing the right paint mixture for the swords' color, but I think this is actually closer to how it looked in the anime.

One thing I found odd was holes on the underside of the Blast Silhouette's missile launcher parts.

There could be all sorts of reasons as to why those holes are there, but it certainly makes painting much easier. Whip up a black wash and the paint will flow right where you need it when you dab the tip of the brush through the holes.

Haro (Billion Spark Craftsmanship)

Here, we take a look at Haro by Billion Spark Craftsmanship.
This kit in particular is labeled as the A.E.U.G version and seems to be modeled after Kamille Bidan.

Despite the finished product being small (just 8cm in diameter), there's actually quite a lot in the package. In addition to the runners, you'll find an LED circuit, some screws, and a screwdriver.

You may end up having to use your own though as the head of those included in at least two of my kits were not machined properly; one of them being completely unusable.

Right off the bat, it's important to take note of some typos in the manual.
The parts B2(1) and B2(3) actually have their labels switched.

Here are the parts for the outer shell. Modelers accustomed to Gunpla will definitely notice a difference as these are much stiffer and feel more robust than the more commonly used polystyrene or ABS. This makes the finished kit feel more like an electronic gadget than a plastic model.

There are gears linking the two upper flaps and BSC has devised a simple yet effective method of making sure they are aligned properly.

Having previously worked with this kit, I noticed a bit of bleeding around the eyes when the LEDs light up. To prevent that, you may want to mask around the eyes.

Each of the fingers are individually articulated at the knuckle. Unlike the rest of the kit, the hands are rather prone to mold defects and sinkholes are not uncommon. Note the incomplete molding of the right ring finger.

Although the instructions are simple and easy to follow, it is not clear about the orientation of the parts. It would be wise to be extra careful to make sure you are not actually putting a part on backwards. With the exception of the hinge connecting the two halves, the finished model feels very solid. Although the fingers are prone to defects, the mold itself is rather good and all the parts fit together well.

With the LEDs on...

You can also swap in parts for the arms and to make the bottom flaps stick out.

A size comparison with my motorized Akaharo and a 1/144 Gundam AGE-1 Normal.

Final thoughts:
This is a simple kit that will take the average builder around an hour or two to finish and one I would highly recommend.