HG 1/144 WIP- ZGMF-X56S Impulse Gundam

I figured I'd try a different review than I normally do by comparing runners from the three Impulse variants side by side. 

Left to Right: Sword, Force, Blast

 Unlike most kits that repurpose runners, you're not really gonna be left with much of anything after the build.

Here's where misfortune strikes. The first time I've broken a v-fin. Not even while sharpening, I broke it while cutting the part off the runner.

After crying for a couple of seconds, I stuck on a length of runner, then resumed crying while waiting for the cement to cure. After filing down to shape, it's almost good as new.

An utter failure eyeballing the right paint mixture for the swords' color, but I think this is actually closer to how it looked in the anime.

One thing I found odd was holes on the underside of the Blast Silhouette's missile launcher parts.

There could be all sorts of reasons as to why those holes are there, but it certainly makes painting much easier. Whip up a black wash and the paint will flow right where you need it when you dab the tip of the brush through the holes.

Haro (Billion Spark Craftsmanship)

Here, we take a look at Haro by Billion Spark Craftsmanship.
This kit in particular is labeled as the A.E.U.G version and seems to be modeled after Kamille Bidan.

Despite the finished product being small (just 8cm in diameter), there's actually quite a lot in the package. In addition to the runners, you'll find an LED circuit, some screws, and a screwdriver.

You may end up having to use your own though as the head of those included in at least two of my kits were not machined properly; one of them being completely unusable.

Right off the bat, it's important to take note of some typos in the manual.
The parts B2(1) and B2(3) actually have their labels switched.

Here are the parts for the outer shell. Modelers accustomed to Gunpla will definitely notice a difference as these are much stiffer and feel more robust than the more commonly used polystyrene or ABS. This makes the finished kit feel more like an electronic gadget than a plastic model.

There are gears linking the two upper flaps and BSC has devised a simple yet effective method of making sure they are aligned properly.

Having previously worked with this kit, I noticed a bit of bleeding around the eyes when the LEDs light up. To prevent that, you may want to mask around the eyes.

Each of the fingers are individually articulated at the knuckle. Unlike the rest of the kit, the hands are rather prone to mold defects and sinkholes are not uncommon. Note the incomplete molding of the right ring finger.

Although the instructions are simple and easy to follow, it is not clear about the orientation of the parts. It would be wise to be extra careful to make sure you are not actually putting a part on backwards. With the exception of the hinge connecting the two halves, the finished model feels very solid. Although the fingers are prone to defects, the mold itself is rather good and all the parts fit together well.

With the LEDs on...

You can also swap in parts for the arms and to make the bottom flaps stick out.

A size comparison with my motorized Akaharo and a 1/144 Gundam AGE-1 Normal.

Final thoughts:
This is a simple kit that will take the average builder around an hour or two to finish and one I would highly recommend.

RG 1/144 WIP- MSZ-006-3 Zeta Gundam III

Working on the skirts felt rather strange since their mounts are attached to the legs instead of the waist.

I took the time to handpaint some details as masking would be less practical in this situation. Also, there's a seam on the forearms, so those had to be dealt with.

The large decal for the shield was exceedingly difficult to align even after wetting, so I cut it into three parts during application.

Finally done. Instead of the stock beam effect, I'll be using a larger one intended for 1/100 models.

HG 1/144 WIP- MSN-001-2 Delta Gundam II

Here is my first attempt at candy. I'll be doing two tones for the build, and for this particular batch, I've used a light bronze for the base and topped with clear red.
I've kept the clear coat rather thin so it looks more like brushed metal which I think is more suitable for Gundam-type MS because they're more angular.

 Comparing the candy red I've done to the original color. The wing binder parts have already been cemented together, so the fins have been C-modded because they'll be painted in a different tone.

 It's such a strange feeling to have gone through the trouble of getting a hold of a red Delta, only to paint it gold in preparation for candy.

 Finally started snapping parts together.
Looks like the candy is largely successful and the decals didn't come out as glaring as I'd feared.

Project V Clipboard

This is a little side project I worked on over the weekend.

I scribed the design onto the back of an old clipboard and painted it 

to look like the Project V manual.

I printed out a sticker for the upper left corner and finished everything off with a clear topcoat to make it more durable since I plan on putting this to regular use.

Custom RG 1/144 WIP- MBF-01 Gundam Astray Gold Frame Amatsu Perfect Form

Why? Because symmetry.

Probably the scariest thing I've ever done in a build. A right arm connector was modded into a left arm connector.

Test fitting the new feet parts. Unlike the Amatsu Mina variant, the Amatsu Perfect Form has what seems to be the standard Astray feet, but with the distinctive pointy tips. To my horror, this release does not include the bottom parts of the Astray feet, so I had to procure a spare Red Frame.

Shortly after the RG Astray Red Frame was released, it received some negative feedback regarding its mouth vents.
It seems Bandai has taken action accordingly, as the Gold Frame Amatsu Mina uses a new sculpt for its face plate that more closely resembles the MG proportions.